Fiat Ducato Van Conversion
About the project
Choosing a base model
(The items used in this build you can find by clicking here)
Before the conversion you must wisely choose a base model. There are several vans on the market that would make a conversion into a camper van attractive.
However there is one fact that makes the decision for a base model fairly simply, which was the deciding factor for me choosing the Fiat Ducato:
Sleeping sideways!
Having an apartment on 4 wheels must be planned efficiently to use the limited space wisely. And a huge space saving factor comes with the with of the vehicle. By having the bed from wall to wall allows you to create a spacious living room.
The Fiat Ducato is over 220cm wide, which makes it compared to similar van models used for camper conversions about almost 20cm wider.
The Fiat Ducato; Peugeot Boxer or Citroën Jumper come with the same dimensions and make a super efficient base model for a van conversion.
The version “H2L2” (height 2/length 2) is short enough for normal parking lot sizes and high enough to stand for any person up to 2m. Which is the size I chose for my build.
My recommendation:
A great base for a camper van conversion is the H2L2 Fiat Ducato; Peugeot Boxer or Citroën Jumper.
2. Planing the conversion
I like to think and solve task once it is in front of me, however a basic plan on how the interior should look like and the approximate dimensions of it are important. Make sure you made some thoughts before placing the insulation throughout the entire interior of the van as it is of no fun to remove it again!
My basic thoughts before the conversion:
Sleeping sideways
Big rooftop above the bed for starry nights
Big hinged window from the bed to watch the ocean when laying
Electric rooftop with ventilator (Maxxfan) close to the kitchen
Kitchen at the sliding door for great views while cooking
Big couch for at least 4 people behind the driver seat (for snug and wind protected views when sitting with an open sliding door)
Small over head cabin
230V / 4000 Watt solar
Turning chairs
Diesel heater 2KW
Pull out table (inside) & Pull out bar table (outside)
Outside LED light
UV opaque curtains
Parkett floor
4000 Watt inverter
220Ah LifePo4 Battery (Liontron)
and much more…
3. Big clean before project start!
I really recommend you to really thoroughly wash your van before disassembly.
All chairs and interior parts will be removed so better wash it now, it wont be so easy driving without a seat to the wash park.
Why is a wash so important?
I will apply rust preventive treatments (8kg of 120°C hot Mike Sanders fat) during the conversion which will be applied into all cavities and to the underbody. Once the car with all its hollow spaces are washed it can take days until all water evaporated! And we surely do not want to spray a rust preventive treatment on a wet base!
You can find an in-depth chapter on how to apply such a rust-preventive treatment in my conversion book: “How to Build a Mini-Camper” (click).
It can be hard finding a wash park that fits a whole Fiat Ducato into the automated wash street, but the hand high pressure cleaner does a phenomenal job. In any case using a hand high pressure cleaner is a must even after using an automated wash street as dirt can build up throughout the years on the street and can become quite stubborn in the cavities.
My recommendation:
A very thorough clean with a hand high pressure cleaner applied to all accessible cavities before the conversion to get the most out of the preventive anticorrosion treatment.
4. Disassembly
Now, clear the transporter of all built-in parts, such as:
The divider wall between the driving cabin and the loading area
Interior paneling
Seats
Antenna
Belts
Almost everything else that can be removed
It's best not to discard any removed parts immediately; wait until you have finished the conversion. You might come up with creative uses for parts you initially thought were useless.
For instance, the old panels can serve as excellent templates. You can transfer their shapes onto a large panel using a marker, then simply cut along the outline to create a perfectly fitting camper panel. Creating a new template from scratch can be very time-consuming. For more detailed guidance, you can refer to my conversion book, which includes an entire chapter on creating and installing custom camper panels (click here).
Another valuable tip is to document the removal of parts. Take photos during the process; this can be extremely helpful when reassembling, as it's easy to forget where or how a part was originally mounted. You can find more tips like this in my conversion book (click here).
My Recommendation:
It's best to start with a completely empty vehicle. This allows you to inspect all surfaces thoroughly and to treat existing rust or apply a rust-preventive treatment. Also, don't forget to document the process for ease of reassembly. Additionally, avoid discarding any parts immediately; it's better to list them online to increase your conversion budget. It's especially important to keep the panels as templates until your new camper panels are finished. For more in-depth guidance on camper panel creation, you can refer to my conversion book (click here).
5. Rust prevention Fiat Ducato
When one invests countless hours and energy into building a beautiful camper it would be to everyones interest to make sure the results can be enjoyed for a long time to come. Therefore it is essential to slow down or even prevent the biggest killer of campers: RUST!
The magic formula against oxidation of steel has yet to be discovered BUT there are several great approaches to slow down rusting by decades. I invested quite some time into finding the most suitable treatment for my precious Fiat Ducato and the answer for me was:
To make sure what I was on the right track I called the Mike Sanders company and to my surprise a man named Mike answered the phone. It was Mr. Sanders himself reassuring me that he has yet to find a better rust preventive treatment for his old timers than his own grease (a good salesman one would say). I asked him if the grease can be sprayed over cables/break lines etc. and he said it is nothing to worry about, it doesn’t harm any of the coatings or rubber.
So I ordered a set from him, you can find the product here. The set comes with a wax melting machine and in it were already 10kg of solid grease. The machine is then turned on to 120C°. Yes 120C°, it sounds too hot to be true but when the fat is sprayed under pressure it cools down quite some before hitting the surface. I got several drops on my skin and it didn’t even sting. However best to use a disposable coverall as you do not want this grease in your washing machine. I scratched the little oxidation I found before application away with a drill machine and a brush attachment. Afterwards I sprayed around 8 kg fat (I would recommend at least 6kg, and max 10kg). The results were beautiful (see pictures). And do not forget step 3 (cleaning of all surfaces before application).
My recommendation:
Applying 8kg of Mike Sanders anticorrosion grease below the car and in all cavities to prevent the car from rusting (You might want to apply the grease after the insulation as the spray mist settles as a barely visible film).
6. Rust Prevention Inner Space
A camper is used to spent prolonged time in it and on average an adult looses around 2.5l-3l water a day. A 70kg man has around 42kg water in his body. This means where humans live in a closed space there will be transpirate (sweat).
Where water and metal meets a love story of oxidation can begin. The inner space is of course protected by paint when it was produced by Fiat but over time scratches due to loading/unloading can occur as well as objects that due to vibration rub damage a surface leaving it vulnerable to oxidation.
The base for this camper is a used transporter and most who do build their own camper do not start with a brand new car therefore this a crucial step: Creating a rust-free foundation.
Make sure that any sign of oxidation no matter how small or insignificant it might appear is being treated before further steps. When I went to medical school we mostly got teached in how to treat symptoms and not the actual origin of disease. This step here can safe you painful hours of treating symptoms (rust) in some years down the line. If we seal and treat all potential hot spots of rust right now we can sleep peacefully knowing that Mr. Rust will not come to visit anytime soon.
I proceed by sanding every oxidation that I find and apply an epoxy rust converter as a base coat. After it is cured zinc spray is sprayed.
The exterior and interior of the vehicle is now free of rust and treated for rust prevention for years to come.
It seems like there is a big discussion about the necessity of Alu Butyl before placing the insulation.
So I put it to the test (see video). The Alu butyl clearly absorbs vibrations making the driving and living experience surely somewhat more comfortable due to reduced chassis vibrations.
But what if Armaflex insulation is being used?
The Armaflex option I used has a self-adhesive side, through the good bonding characteristics of this insulation it does both jobs:
Insulating & reducing chassis vibrations
I had some Alu butyl left overs so I made use of them and placed them on the most central part on all chassis parts that tend mostly to vibrate.
My recommendation:
If you are building on a budget and every Cent counts, leave the Alu butyl for your next build.
Alu Butyl test
7. Insulation and Alu Butyl
8. Insulation (Armaflex?)
This Ducato conversion is my second camper build and in my first camper build (click here) I have also used Armaflex self adhesive insulation. It proved itself as highly effective and so I go again with Armaflex.
One thing that is often left out is the insulation of the driver cabin. As the floor height is also functional (gas pedel, brake pedel etc.) we cant insulate as thick as the rest of the van. I used 8mm Armaflex insulation for the driver cabin and it worked out well, the floor feels now slightly more squishy when walking on it and I love it very cozy.
Link to Insulation used for the loading area: https://amzn.to/3bfLKlb
Link to Insulation used for the driver cabin: https://amzn.to/3b2Igmh
Link to Insulation tape used to cover hard accessible spots: https://amzn.to/3y47Csv
Brake Cleaner used to degrease surfaces: https://amzn.to/3O4vX76
My recommendation:
Make sure to use brake cleaner to degrease all surfaces bevor application. Brake cleaner is a fairly cheap option that evaporates without residues which is perfect before applying the insulation.
9. The Floor Base Construction
The floor was insulated with 19mm Armaflex insulation and in the pictures you can see that I glued wooden slats on the floor to create a base for the coated plywood. The plywood is the exact same type as used for trailers (trailers are constantly exposed to all sorts of weather conditions and water therefore a great base plate for a camper). Only drawback on a trailer plywood floor base plate is the weight, one could save some kilos with an inferior plate.
To glue the baseplate I used Sikaflex glue. Sikaflex is produced by a german company and I have yet to find a camper builder who wouldn’t praise their products.
Sikaflex glue for gluing the wooden slats: https://amzn.to/3y2K8E1
Make sure to weigh down the slats after having glued them —> avoiding different heights of the slats after being cured.
Now you deserve yourself a coffee, take a 24h break and leave the glue to dry. You have done enough for today.
I heard a variety of opinions on this point. Some say:
it is impossible to create a vapour barrier.
by wrongly installing a vapour barrier water can be trapped and one accelerates the problem one wanted to stop with the vapour barrier in the first place.
it is a must in any good quality camper build.
Confusing? Oh yes… I have spend countless hours online and it is still some sort of a riddle for me. One person I actually do trust when it comes to van building related topics is: Greg Virgoe.
I have attached two of his videos here. My opinion about vapour barriers is that I believe it is worth giving it a good try, but I am not vigorously stuck to the opinion that it is an absolute must, as it is truly not. I have seen campers without any insulation or vapour barrier that with enough care did just as fine as other campers. Recently I met someone who owned a newly bought camper (built by a fairly familiar camper company) and it had no vapour barrier and the insulation was very poorly executed.
—> I gave it a serious intend when I built my Fiat Ducato, if I did it really correct will be seen by the test of time. In the near future I will try opening the insulation to see the condition below.
My recommendation:
If you will sleep countless nights in your camper throughout the years in relatively cold areas while having no window open during sleeping I would recommend you investing the energy into a vapour barrier. But if you are just a hobby camper for some nights during the warmer period of the year it is most likely overkill.
10. Vapour barrier necessary?
11. Installing A Hinged Window
Imagine you are laying in the bed while feeling a soft breeze you put your book to the side and you have a direct view on the ocean.
That was a scenario I so dearly wanted to experience once the camper is finished, so I had to create a hinged camper window on the side of my bed. As I do not want any compromise it had to be the biggest window I could find for that spot. Additionally I wanted it to open as far as possible. Therefore my choice landed on a Carbest RW Compact (click).
I had to create a smaller than usual wood frame as you can see in the picture to fit such a big window in there.
Another big plus point is that the window comes in a tinted version, this saves me time and money to tint the window myself. Also a roller blind can be purchased for this window and that is exactly what I did as I sleep better knowing nobody can look inside the camper.
Quick Tipp:
A metal brace needs to be removed in order to fit the window, but do not worry it is not stability relevant but rather to decrease vibrations of the chassis.
12. More Windows For A Panorama
The sliding door would make a perfect fit for another big glass window. Especially because the kitchen will be placed there. On rainy days when spending time in the camper van one wants to feel connected to the outside therefore more windows are a must. This window is again from the company Carbest, this time it is a glas window.
If you have a jigsaw and a metal file at home then you can install your own window. In contrary to the hinged window this glas window does not need an inner frame. This means you just need a hole and some glue, it couldn’t be any easier.
My recommendation here:
Use very fine metal jigsaw sawing blades for a clean cut.
Use tape to protect the body paintwork when sawing.
Use heat-resistant tape (green) it wont leave any glue after removing.
Use primer to create a strong bond between window and chassis.
Apply felt fabric after cutting the hole but before inserting the window to create perfect borders.
Then leave it to dry for 24h and you have fitted another window!
13. Electric Roof Window + Fan
Having a camper means having a kitchen inside a fairly small space. Where food is being heated water evaporates and smells are generated. As the kitchen is in close proximity to all other belongings like the bed, clothes, etc.. It is necessary that the vapours generated through cooking can be effectively removed out of the car. That I have done by placing the kitchen closest to the biggest opening of the car (the sliding door). But it is not always sunny and warm that allows an open sliding door for comfortable cooking. My idea was to fit an electric roof top above the kitchen that has the function to stay open even by rain without letting water enter into the vehicle while simultaneously having a vent that can be regulated for air to be pulled into or sucked out of the car in a controllable strength from 0-100% output.
My choice landed on an American product called the: Maxxfan (click here to find the product).
A very important step here is to catch all the metal debris created through sawing before it touches the ground. This can be done by taping a plastic bag below the to be cut field. The small metal debris could cause severe problems in the future as they can be the start for rust spots.
The Maxxfan requieres a self made wood frame for stability, the base plate is being screwed through the roof into the wood frame. Make sure you make the holes before and treat all holes with paint. Never ever leave steel unsealed, there is not a single spot on a camper build where steel after cutting should be left unsealed before proceeding with further steps.
My recommendation:
Taping a plastic bag below the to be cut window spot to prevent metal debris from potentially creating a source for rust to form!
14. Panorama Roof Window
Many fairytales have parts of beings staring into the dark night with its enchanting stars. And for me a self-sufficient camper is exactly that a fairytale story made reality, so the possibility to lay in the bed with a loved one and looking up into the stars is something that needs to be realised.
My choice is the Dometic Midi Heki (click here to find the product).
This window is the biggest version I could find that can be installed legally without bigger modifications of the chassis. The Fiat Ducato has a rather uneven roof surface, there is an adapter available to fit the Dometic Midi Heki on a Fiat Ducato/Citröen Jumper/Peugeot Boxer roof top.
15. The Camper Flooring
Many camper use some sort of vinyl flooring which is basically a synthetic material mostly made from PVC; fiberglass and plasticizer. It is highly durable and often resistant to water. Making it a perfect flooring right? Yes and no. In a house where temperature ranges are between 10-40 degrees yes. But in a car parked in the sun at 35°C the inside reaches above 65°C. Once I was in Australia and we had a package of eggs in the car, it was a very hot day at above 40C° and the car was parked in the sun all day. When we came back we opened the eggs and they were partially boiled. And that is where vinyl is not perfectly made for: High temperatures. The plastic can even bend and loose its original form at such high temperatures leaving you with gaps or waves in the flooring.
I have used industrial grade vinyl in my first camper conversion of a VW T4 (click here to see the conversion). And I saw some deformations in the floor on the hottest time of the year.
So I went with a highly resistant parquet flooring with a water and scratch resistant layer. I chose an extra big version to avoid many lines in the flooring. Even on the hottest day this year I have not seen any changes in shape or gap size between each piece.
My recommendation:
Make sure your flooring can resist temperatures above 60°C (that will occur in a car on a hot summer day).
16. The Bed Construction
The bed construction is made of relatively light but strong wood. The size of the final bed is almost 2m*1,40m.
To appreciate the space below the bed to its maximum potential I installed the electric wall in a very organised and serviceable friendly fashion around the left wheel-housing while having a 120l water tank around the right wheel-housing.
More about the electric wall, the 120l water tank and the pull-out drawers later on.
17. The 120l Water Tank
Washing dishes, brushing teeth, taking a shower or filling a pot to cook some food. Just like any household, a camper needs water.
Water can be used quickly and it is important to not run out of it when having found a beautiful spot to park for some days. So I installed a large 120l water tank around the right wheel-housing.
Many campers that do have to take their water tanks out for filling do complain about it. Detaching and refitting all the hoes for each filling is a headache not to mention to carry a heavy water tank. Therefore an easy filling port was created to make sure minimal effort is needed to regain water levels in the camper. A key is needed to unlock the filling port.
There is one problem with water tanks in the winter: If water turns to ice it can damage the water pump and potentially crack the tank or pipes. This scenario can cause water to leak and could severely damage the interior of your camper.
The solution: A quick drainage function.
Below the tank a hole with a mechanical valve was created. When opening the trunk one can now easily reach the tank and turn a valve. This valve opens and lets water directly drain below the car. The valve has 2 settings:
Drain down to 20l (Setting 1)
This setting is when leaving from a holiday or driving towards a destination to reduce the weight of the water tank during the long drive (to save fuel). It will still be more than enough water left for the trip. Once arrived at the destination water levels can be filled up again.
Drain completely (Setting 2)
This setting is for the winter to avoid damage from water turning into ice.
Valve closed (Setting 3)
This setting is used to fill the tank
18. Felt Fabric For A Cozy Interior
The 4d felt fabric (click) was a blessing to me during this Ducato camper conversion. 4d stands for 4 dimensional, meaning it is quite stretchable in all directions allowing you to master even the hardest corners with a great finish.
I ordered my felt fabric here (click). Great product and great company behind the felt (Bus4fun).
Steps in applying felt fabric to your camper built:
Cut felt fabric into desired shape
Spray high quality spray glue (here)
Apply felt fabric and use hard tool to firmly press fabric into all corners
Again as always: The base must be free of grease, dirt and oxidation.
My recommendation here:
The felt fabric from Bus4fun have proven to be reliable, easy to apply and of great value. If you purchase through my link here (click) you get the product for the same price but I might get some felt from Bus4fun to give away in future videos.
19. The Roof Construction
The roof base is constructed from wooden pieces that are glued to the roof. Once cured, this method enables the straightforward attachment of tongue and groove boards to the base structure by screwing them in.
This technique facilitates a swift roof installation without the necessity of additional holes or metal screws. Generally, it is advisable to minimize drilling and screwing because screws, being metal, have high thermal conductivity. When a screw is connected to the body chassis and extends through the insulation into the interior, it can transfer cold. This temperature variation could lead to condensation around the screw, potentially causing mold over time.
In summary: Employing glue can be preferable to screws in some aspects of camper construction. However, be aware that reverting your vehicle to its original condition will be significantly more challenging with glued components. If you plan to use your camper only occasionally and require an empty vehicle during other times of the year, constructing a foundation that is screwed together, without the use of glue, is advisable.
My Recommendation:
Gluing wooden pieces directly to the roof's body chassis provides a quick and effortless method for later attaching wooden boards. This is a truly headache-free approach!
20. Electronics (Electro Wall)
This conversions highlight will be its modern electronics. The 2 wheel-housings in the back of the car reach far into the interior, making the space hard to efficiently use. Therefore I placed around right wheel-housing the 120l water tank and now I create an electro wall around the left wheel-housing. In this was I assure a clean and easy serviceable electro unit to make this a self sufficient camper on the highest standard. The electro wall will be connected to the 400watt solar roof station, the 220Ah Lifepo4 battery, the starter battery, the shore power connector and to all other electronics creating a beautiful harmony between all components.
The electro wall contains:
Smart Shunt (click)
Battery charger (click)
Charging booster: (click)
Solar charge controller: (click)
Fuse box: (click)
Big fuse Holder: (click)
Bus bar (distribution block): (click)
Inverter: (click)
The Battery (click) will be place on the floor just next to the electro wall.
21. The 400Watt Solar System
Imagine you could park your camper and never having to worry about electricity.
Imagine you could watch unlimited movies.
Imagine you could charge whatever device for as many time as you wish.
Imagine you can turn the induction stove on and just cook.
Imagine you produce more electricity than you can use.
Imagine you can power a heat gun with your car.
Imagine you can power a table saw with your car.
Imagine you can jump-start your engine battery with your lithium battery.
All that is possible with the installed combination of the most modern by-pass diode technology of the AE-solar modules (market leading solar company from Germany) with the efficient solar charge controller from Victron Energy and a 220 Lithium Battery from Liontron.
Since I have installed the electrics I did not manage to drain the battery below 89%. Which is incredible. I even stopped using the shore power for building the rest of the camper. I just plugged whatever machine into the camper and it delivered sufficient power. Just unbelievable…
My recommendation:
Everything above 300Watt is most likely overkill in a small camper, unless you really want to live full-time in it.
22. The Lithium Battery
The 200Ah lithium battery which in reality has 220Ah when measured. But the producer has to advertise with the usable range, which in fact is around 200Ah as one should not completely drain the battery (also lithium batteries suffer if stored or drained to the absolute minimum). The effect of completely draining or empty storage is not at all comparable to a non-lithium battery, but can still cause considerable lifetime reduction in your Lifepo4 battery.
In general: Do not drain or store your Lithium battery lower than 20% to maximise your batteries lifespan.
But a lithium battery is too expensive, it doesn’t make sense spending 2000€ on a lithium battery instead of 150€ lead battery.
That is wrong.
If one considers the lifespan and function of a lithium battery in combination with a solar system, especially in a camper set-up than a seemingly unreasonable 8times higher purchase price of the lithium battery will in the long run even beat the lead battery financially speaking.
Longer Lifespan
Increased energy density
Higher efficiency in solar absorption (better for a solar camper)
Safer as an lead-acid battery
Maintenance almost not needed
27kg lithium battery equals 120kg lead acid battery
Fuel Savings due to almost 100kg less battery weight
Very resistant to vibrations and harsh conditions
Faster charging
Environmentally speaking better in the long run
Self-discharges much slower
Chemistry more stable, combustible risk far lower (better for a camper)
Better thermal stability (camper gets hot)
23. 2kW Parking Heater (Autoterm)
The AUTOTERM Air 2d parking heater (to the product list)
This 2kW diesel heater is a very compact device and I ordered it with a super silent pump. Maybe you remember the clicking of the trucks when visiting a highway parking at night, those sounds are pumping sounds from the pump of the diesel heaters. I wanted to the clicking of the pump is as silent as possible. Additionally I did install the pump in a rubber case which greatly reduces the vibrations transferred to the car chassis. Also I purchased the comfort control unit to have a variety of settings over the heater.
How does a diesel heater work?
A hole needs to be made in the car, an adapter plate is being installed and on top the heater. A fresh air pipe from under the car brings air into the diesel burning chamber. The diesel sucked from the vans big tank is being burned and released through an exhaust below the car. Meanwhile the combustion of diesel causes the corpus of the parking heater to increase in temperature and a ventilator in the heater sucks air from inside the car through the heater transferring the heat from combustion to the bypassing air and the releasing the heated air into the camper interior. So the combustion and exhaust system are completely separated from the interior of the car, making it a very safe system.
The max produced hot air flow is 86m3 per hour. I have tested the camper after I finished it because I moved to Sweden and it was -10 degrees that night. The heater delivered a cozy room temperature of 18°C that night!
If I remember correct I once calculated that the heater could run on low for than 2 months on a Ducato tank filling (I will place a proper calculation here soon).
24. Overhead cabins
Something that I have learned through having spend in total around 4 months of my life in a van throughout the last 8 years is that overly big overhead cabins are a total atmosphere killer. If one has limited space like in a camper every wasted cm hurts and overhead cabins are mostly so unreasonably big. Having something hanging around the head area is not only annoying but can be a good reason for a good headache. So I planned the overhead cabin in a way that gives it the most volume with the smallest covering possible. I used felt fabric as a back material to get the maximum depth out of it. Also it is wide enough to create a spacious storing while being small enough that no standing position in the living area of the car could cause a head to accidentally bump into the overhead cabin.
In the 6 days that I have used this camper in the last 7 months I have not once even needed the overhead cabin, proving that for me overly large overhead cabins are just an atmosphere killer.
I have seen quite some campers throughout the years and most with big overhead cabins have started collecting unneeded things in them. I believe it is better to carry a few items less but all of them are of function.
25. Pull-out Drawers
Below the bed is plenty of space. I thought that 4 big drawers would create a beautiful looking trunk and interior. In the big drawers modules can be placed to modify/create compartments as needed. This way I was sure to have it all, as I can create quickly small compartments in a big drawer or remove the compartments and having a big drawer again which could even fit a foldable bike. Also I left enough space to place a portable bikes between the water tank and the drawers.
I am using telescopic rails with ball-bearings. The wood is light and strong. Additionally each drawer will get a varnish used for boats, making them water resistent, scratch resistant, easy to clean and more rigid.
I used some tools that one can get for a very affordable price online (click), very helpful to create 90° angles. I wouldnt have wanted to miss them. Other than that I would recommend wood glue (click), it makes the drawers somewhat more stable and it is very satisfying gluing wood!
My recommendation:
Do not completely screw tight the base construction of the drawers before inserting them into the holding construction. Once inserted screw the base construction fully tight, this allows perfect alignment and smooth gliding of the drawers.
26. The Ducato Camper Kitchen
A carpenter studies for years to build furniture and that is for good reason. Building furniture that perfectly aligns is a very difficult task to do without much experience so lets be smart about it. The wood prices are higher than ever and I calculated that I would need almost 200€ in raw materials for building my own kitchen. So I went to a local furniture shop and searched for anything that would have the appropriate measurements to be transformed into a kitchen. And I found a dresser that looked like a match.
The only problem is that a dresser is not made for the tasks a kitchen plate is build for. Additionally the back of any dresser is made of a thin piece of carton. Time to place a high quality kitchen plate on top of the dresser and fit a back piece in the same wood style than other interior parts. Also I will adjust the drawers that the grey water pipe can reach the grey water tank undisturbed.
At the end I build a stand which lifts the kitchen 3cm higher to create a passive lightning below the kitchen. This will make the kitchen look awesome at night and creates a cozy atmosphere.
27. Tinting Windows
Curtains will be installed at a later stage; however, there are compelling reasons to consider adding tinted foil to the windows behind the driver's cabin. While most countries prohibit darkening the driver cabin windows (driver, co-driver, and windshield), tinting is typically allowed for windows in the rear section of the vehicle.
To reduce the risk of attracting unwanted attention to your camper's interior. The more people are aware of your valuable interior, the higher the likelihood of someone targeting your camper for burglary or even vehicle theft.
Sometimes, you may not want the windows completely covered by curtains, which can create constant gaps, exposing you inside the vehicle. Tinted foil allows for privacy even without the curtains being fully closed.
Quick stops are more incognito. Simply park your car and move from the driver's cabin to the back area of your vehicle without anyone noticing.
UV damage is reduced. Depending on the foil model, it can significantly (up to 100%) reduce the penetration of UV rays, thus protecting the interior from fading and UV-related damage.
Insulating properties. Some foils can enhance the insulating properties of the windows.
28. Hidden Sliding Table
A table is a must-have for every camper. However, they take up a lot of space. A folding table? I really do not like folding and unfolding a table every time it's needed. Additionally, its table legs will be in the way, making it hard to open drawers, etc.
In such a confined space like a camper, you have to consider every option to free up space.
The solution? A slideable table that is hidden below the bed plate. Its length will be exactly the width of the bed, which is around 140 cm. This allows for a seamless integration, and you will be able to pull the table out from within the vehicle and from outside (standing by the trunk).
Simply add a stable aluminum rail that corresponds to the thickness of the table plate to ensure it won't make rattling noises during drives. Then, to lock it in its position, you can attach any locking mechanism of your choice.
Tip: Use small cuts of the same panel used for the furniture and attach them around the opening made for the table to slide in and out. This allows the cut to visually blend into the furniture (see pictures).
My Recommendation:
A slideable large table plate that's seamlessly hidden below the bed plate allows for maximum space efficiency, and when extended, creates a stylish look. If you want to use it without any table legs, as I do in this conversion, you have to choose a stable table plate that allows for being pulled out and supporting plates and leaning arms without bending or damage over the years.
29. Curtain & Curtain Rails
Curtains that are sliding in curtain rails make it the most efficient and in my opinion most satisfying if one wants to quickly darken or hide inside the vehicle.
Best to install very slim metal curtain rails as shown in the pictures. In most hardware stores you will only find big and clumsy curtain rails. But a visit at your local interior decorator will give you much more chances on finding such delicate looking slim curtain rails.
The golden curtain rails here are solely 10mm in width which is ideal to attach it to all windows, and especially for the Fiat Ducato there is an optimal metal fold just behind the driver cabin which makes attaching it there looking perfect!
My Recommendation:
Using narrow metal curtain rails made from aluminium allow them to be slightly bend and they can fit in very narrow spaces as seen on the pictures. Best adress is at the local interior decorater, there you can also give your curtain dimension sketches or bring the entire vehicle and he/she will be able to craft the perfect fitting curtains for you.
30. More about Everything in the Conversion Video/Book
This page details 30 steps, yet there are many more that occur in between and afterwards. Reflecting on the saying, "A picture is worth a thousand words," I believe a video says even more. It's time to present the entire conversion, condensed into a 30-minute video.
Editing the video took several months, and I sincerely hope it helps you achieve your DIY camper build more swiftly. The purpose of my website, videos, and my conversion book is to simplify your life and help you complete your DIY projects more quickly
For those who desire more thorough descriptions and installation guidance, my "How to Build a Mini-Camper" conversion book is available for purchase here (click). Writing this book took almost a year, along with many sleepless nights. If it assists you, I would greatly appreciate a review.
Thank you
I want to thank you again.
Thank you for visiting my homepage.
Thank you for reading all the way to the end.
I wish you all the best for your own project and remember, it's not about the camper, but the people and heartfelt moments we experience together. No matter how big or small your project, live your life with excitement. Even if it's just a mattress you throw into your car's trunk, that is already enough!
Your Lukas
